Ball Pythons are the heart of our breedings, as you may have been able to tell by what we call ourselves. Our focus falls solely on creating medium pieds of all colorations. Our personal interests are towards achieving a perfect balance of color and white. Although high whites are sought after we instead breed for our own interests instead of the market's. Currently we have snakes able to create normal pied and pastel pied. In the future we hope to work with clown leopard pieds and xanathic pieds.  


Below care information you can find a gallery of the ball pythons in our care.

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Ball Python Care and Information
(Python regius)


Size:
Approx three feet for males, and five feet for females.
Weight:
Anywhere from one to eight pounds
Lifespan:
20 to 30 years in captivity
Temperament:
Varies from indivisuals but typically are docile with frequent handling.


Diet
Ball pythons eat rodents, either thawed or live with great supervision. Rats are recommended over mice because an adult only needs one rat vs. seven mice in a feeding. Frozen pre-killed rodents can be purchased from various places online, or at some pet shops. Hatchlings and young pythons should be fed once every week. Adults can be feed once every two weeks. Some will be picky eaters, or choose to not eat at all. This is fine as they can go a long period of time without eating. You should only grow concerned if they become skinny, lose significant weight, or show signs of illness.

A ball python is cheap to feed, costing around $15 a month maximum if overpaying. The rodent they eat should be around 15% of the snake's weight (in grams). If your snake is 1000grams, its food will be 150 grams. An adult rat weighs 400 grams, and an adult mouse 30 grams. A thousand gram snake will eat one young rat or five adult mice in one meal.

Thawing
Firstly, NEVER microwave a frozen rodent as it WILL explode guts all over the microwave. You can put the rat in a ziplock, then submerge the bagged rat in bowl/cup of hot tap water (using a brick to weigh it down, or something similar). You can try putting the rat directly in the container of hot water but some snakes won't take wet rats and need the head blow-dried. Thawing in hot water is the most popular method. To tempt a python to eat a thawed rat wave it around by the tail with tongs. Hands should never be seen during feeding as this can create an association with hands meaning food. You can also try dragging it along the ground by the neck with the tongs to make it look as if it is walking. Once the python grabs the rat do not disturb them until they have finished swallowing. Some pythons are shy eaters and may not eat until it is dark and no one is moving around the house. 


Contrary to some belief feeding a snake is less cruel to feed than feeding a dog or cat. A ball python will in an entire year eat around 50 pounds of animal product. Cats and dogs eat around 30% of all animal meat produced in farms every year. 


Water
A simple large dish that the ball python can both bath in and drink from is all that's needed to provide it with water. It should however be made of ceramic or something that can not be tipped easily. Refresh the water when needed and fully clean the bowl every other day or if it has been defecated in.


Heating and Humidity
Ball pythons need belly heat in the form of a heating pad. These are sold in nearly every pet store and online. The pad needs to be large enough that the snake can coil loosely and be completely surrounded by heat. They do not need heat lamps, or UVB. Heat lamps will dry the enclosure causing shed problems and pythons are nocturnal and will hide from the light. The pad should be UNDER the enclosure and never be able to be directly touched by the python or they can be burned. The hot spot from the pad needs to be around 90F, the rest of the enclosure 75 - 80F.


Ball python's humidity is easy to accomplish as they only require around 60% humidity. More water in the dish and less ventilation (but still enough to breath and prevent mold) can increase humidity. Doing the opposite will decrease it. Ball pythons only require bumps in humidity when showing signs of shedding which can be done by misting the sides of the enclosure everyday until they complete the shed.


Enclosure
Housing is not difficult for a ball python. They can live in a tank or tub if customized with breathing holes. They need enough space that they can stretch out most, or all, of their body length straight out. They enjoy having a lot of hides of different sizes and some will enjoy a sturdy branch to climb on. Avoid using tube hides or anything with holes as they may get trapped in it when trying to slither through.

Their bedding can be many things, as long as it isn't pine or cedar as this is toxic. Wood shaving often come with mites if it isn't baked before being sold or is stored improperly (like outside). Shredded paper for rodents is what we personally use as it asorbs mess well and doesn't stick to their scales and pits. It also doesn't cause impaction or scrape the digestive system if eaten during feeding. Ball pythons tend to defecate once a week so a complete change of bedding every time is easiest, and most sanitary. To avoid scale rot and respiratory issues any mess should be cleaned up as soon as possible, and the bedding kept dry. The air should hold the humidity, not the bedding. 


Shedding
Ball Pythons will shed their skin every few weeks and it is easy to predict. Their belly will turn a pinkish red, and soon after their eyes turn a clouded blue. Their eyesight is compromised at this time so be slow when approaching them. Their color will become muted as well. When you notice them going into shed mist the sides of the enclosure or offer them a wet hide. A bin or jug with a hole cut out and a wet towel inside will work great. If misting, do this everyday until their shed is complete. 


When the shed is complete check the vent, tail tip, and eyes for any left over shed. Additionally you can check their shed skin husk for eyecaps, and if both are there it's a good sign. If patches are left on the snake, or it is having trouble shedding, you can put them in a bin with water and a towel and leave them in there for an hour to help the shed loosen. By then you may be able to gently brush it off with your hand. 

You must also make sure they have a rough (not sharp) surface that they can rub on to take the shed off. A rock or large piece of tree bark work well for this. 


Our Collection

Steinhusk

Our stud boy, a handsome medium pied. He has behavioral issues from a previous owner and is prone to gator rolling, hissing, and striking when touched but we are slowly ironing those issues out and he has shown great progress in the past couple years but he will probably always be distrustful of humans. Great care wil be given to his hatchlings to reverse any behavioral aggression they have from him and his role in breeding will one day be replaced with a better balanced indivisual. 

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Honey
Our only female currently to weight, Honey is a het pied that came from a good friend. She was quickly fattened up and has been frequently paired with Steinhusk over the past year. Fingers crossed she will eventually produce her, and our, first clutch but the pastel gals may be the first when they reach weight in another year or two.
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The Pastel Gals
Arriving recently these two girls are both pastel het pied with beautiful sides. They came from a breeder who maintenance fed and so are barely 200g at 1.5 years. This is something we strongly disagree with, as it's just a nice way to say "we only fed them enough to keep them breathing ". This keeps the breeder's costs down so the snake sells for more in the end. The Pastel Gals will be fed extra meals every month to get them up to weight as we enjoy seeing our snakes grow and are in it for the hobby, not the profit. Hopefully their old stuck shed scars will eventually heal as well.
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